Thursday, October 25, 2007

Italy Idiosyncrasies...from the perspective of a naive world traveller

Having never been to Italy, or anywhere in Europe for that matter, here are some of the things that I noticed and didn't necessarily expect during my 3 week adventure with Clay traveling from Rome, north to Milan.

ACCOMMODATIONS
  • "Bed and Breakfast" generally means ONLY "Bed"
  • B&Bs need an appointment for check in..it's not your standard 24-hour hotel reception
  • sometimes an email reservation isn't really a reservation, it's best to call and confirm if possible
  • a "single" room means a room for ONE, not one ROOM
  • are there no king size mattresses in italy or are they all two twins pushed together with king sheets over them?! common, no one likes crack.
  • sofabeds generally suck
  • i missed full size showers where you can stretch your arms out without hitting your elbows on the walls

FOOD & DINING
  • food: all i talk about when asked about italy because i basically ate and drank my way through the country. why did we stop in parma? because its the source of parmasean cheese, of course. and procuitto di parma.
  • i'm a recent convert to thin-crust pizza. mmm mmm good when razor thin, made to order, quick to cook and piping hot. the pizza in rome was the best!
  • ordering and courses are different than the typical americano meal. you have a antipasto, maybe a mixed cheese and procuitto plate or roasted veggie to start. then you have your first, typically a pasta dish, then for your second, typically its a meat or seafood dish, but there are no sides. if you order fried calamari as your second, you get fried calamari...no sauce, no rice pilaf of whatever, just fried calamari. along with your second you may order a salad or additional side followed by coffee and dessert if you choose. and you confuse the waitstaff by not ordering your food in the order that you would like to be served...so don't order the antipasto last if you want it served first.
  • i'm all about pistachio gelato. loooooove it.

PEOPLE
  • extremely accommodating and cordial...never got the feeling of "snobby locals."
    • Without warning or introduction, a random old guy on the Venice water bus just started rattling off (mostly in Italian and hand gestures) some story of a fabled beheading that occurred in front of the palace we were just passing back in 1550.
    • market clerks were patient and engaged
    • friendly bystanders pointed you in the right direction when lost
  • was warned many times about the potential for pick pockets and muggings, but fortunately wasn't targeted.

SITES
  • most impressive to me -- age, detail, and scale. even being buddhist, you couldn't help but be awed-inspired by the sheer enormity and intensity some of the churchs like st. peter's basilica in vatican city or feel like san francisco was a baby compared with the history of the roman forum.
  • we traveled in October, considered to be the low season, and yet in Rome, Cinque Terra, and Venice especially there were throngs of tourists...I can Not imagine the crowds (and heat) of high season!

TRANSPORTATION, etc.
  • Milan train station in huge, under what i assume is renovation construction all over the place, but still impressive.
  • We only had one late running train.
  • Except for the larger cities in the North (Venice/Milan), we were never asked to show proof of our train/bus ticket after boarding.
  • Venice's Rolling Junior (12?-29 years old) Pass paid for itself (4 euro) with the discounted water bus fee and admission granted at various museums, etc.
  • it's best to ask a cabbie up front what the fare will be, especially from an airport
  • you just gotta ride the gondola in venice...the pricey fare was worth it (60 euro)

RANDOM STUFF
  • grocery store clerks sit down while ringing you up
  • where the hell do the mosquitos come from?
  • its crazy cool that vino is less expensive to drink than cocktails, and even beer
  • yes, the bathroom facilities are better than most of southeast asia, but a) you better have good knees for all the squatting you'll do and b) why even waste square footage with a bidet?! here's an idea...ditch the bidet and make the friggin shower bigger than 32" x 32"!
  • did the term "water closet" originate from a single room (with no interior walls) with a sink, toilet, bidet, and shower head? just a guess considering several of our bath accommodation "showers" as just described. if you can imagine, water splashes e-v-e-r-y-w-h-e-r-e
  • still more on bathrooms, most Italian "Bar" and Tabacco shops are open to the public 's use of their facilities and are often nicer than the train station hole-in-the-floor of a toilet. if possible, the best is holding out until going to a museum or a nice restaurant for the most comfortable of bathroom accommodations ;)
  • hours of operation...Italians and siesta. it's sort of eerie how it quiets down between 2 and 4pm. most shops and markets close between those hours, and if it's Sunday all bets are off no matter what time of day.
  • i really enjoyed the walking tours. they gave each town, which otherwise would have just been a point on the map, some personality! historical details wove a story of battling families and positions of power and gave insight to how and why towns/buildings/streets were built they way they were.

Tuesday, October 02, 2007

20 Oct 2007, 8-9pm: Lights Out San Francisco

Day 1 and 2: And I'm Off....

5:00am so excited can't sleep anymore

6:30 leave for the airport

7:55 SFO to LAX

10:00 Rito plays hookie and picks me up from the airport in his sporty red mustang convertible...really felt like I was on vacation riding around on those wheels! We head to Hermosa (?) Beach, stroll around the area he explains is sometimes used for the filming of Laguna Beach and grab 2-for-1 brunch with a rooftop view of the ocean. We visit Magellan's, a great little travel store, for me to pick up a few last minute goodies. I got to see his condo in Santa Monica, do some window shopping in Beverly Hills, grab a nibble at the ever-so-trendy Sprinkles Cupcakes and sip an early evening margarita at Sky Bar before heading back to the airport.

Not too shabby for a 12 hour layover if you ask me! Thanks Rito :)

21:00 LAX to London, Heathrow...

18:00 (the following day) Heathrow to Rome...!